Sealing is essential if the figure has much white. Thus the need for highlighting is reduced or eliminated. This reduces the tooth of the paint and allows the dip to flow into the depressions while leaving the high points clean. This is only a problem if you have to touch up some figures with paint and not others.īefore dipping, seal the paint w/ clear spray acrylic.

Hence if you use 'skeleton bone' spray to prime your figures and use dip on that you will end up with a different effect than if you spray and then paint an identical looking colour on top. What you do have to be careful of though is trying to make the process of getting figures to the table too fast as the effects of dip on paint and primer are different. This is especially relevant when using a dark dip on a light paint, where you should be using a THIN layer. After finishing brushing figure 3 I recheck figure 1 (figure 2 after brush dipping figure 4 etc) to make sure that a nasty pool hasn't developed somewhere. When brushing dip on I get into a rythym. Dipping direct (even wipping off the excess) does not work as well in my hands on the light colours. I have never used the pot of soft tone I got at the same time as with careful brushing both strong and dark tones can be used even on very light coloured paints (including whites, creams etc) with good effect. WoR, dark coloured horses (brushing allows rider and horse to be different), Undead etc So strong tone – British Napoleonics and Colonial including Khaki, Austrian Napoleonics (needs care on the off white uniforms), most ECW types, Elves, Skaven etcĭark tone – French Napoleonics (needs care on white trousers etc, but works for me), German WWII, Armour e.g. The strong tone gives a 'warmer' look and a more 'dusty' rather than 'dirty' or 'muddy' look (dark tone) when used in thicker layers, while the dark tone I use for medieval armour, undead and other evil types (such as French Napoleonics – the dark tone works better in my opinion on blue than the strong tone). The trick in that case is to go back and paint the bright highlights on, over the dullcoat, to bring the colors back up. I have some Danish Foot Guards – canary yellow uniforms – that I nonetheless dipped. It works less well for brightly-colored uniforms like the 18th century. My best-dipped army, though are my ACW Confederates. It works brilliantly for more 'Drab' colored armies, like 20th century, or my Dark Age Vikings. One more dull or satin coat sprayed on, and they're done. Just keep using the Suicide Brush and some paper towels to take off the excess.Ĭome back and hit them with a good spray-on Dullcote varnish to get the gloss off.įinally, I add the last few details like eyeballs, belt buckles, shirt buttons, perhaps the gold grip for a sword, etc. Then paint on the dip, and make sure it doesn't pool anywhere on the figure.

I paint on all the basic area colors – and this is key: Always paint them a shade lighter than you want them to be, because the Dip will darken everything.

Obviously, that means that you shouldn't Dip until you've got a nice big batch figures ready. (Dipping is a kamikaze mission for a paintbrush.) Those are my 'doomed dip brushes,' because each one will be thrown away after use. I go to a craft store and buy the super-cheap kids' paintbrushes the sort that come twenty in a pack for five dollars.

The army painter quickshade qs1001 msds